The Paris of the Midwest: Bottega in Detroit
Ever embracing the unexpected, Daniel Lee, creative director of Bottega Veneta, chose to show the brand’s spring 2022 collection not in Milan or Paris, but in Detroit, Michigan. Inspired by the city’s industrial roots and techno music, Lee staged the salon-style exhibition in Detroit’s historic Michigan Theatre. In addition to the show, the weekend marked the opening of the Bottega Firehouse: a pop-up store offering a selection of Bottega pieces, along with wares from local artists, musicians, and carefully curated books. Finally, the Bottega-led field trip to Detroit was encapsulated by a tour of Detroit landmarks.
For most in the fashion world, this was just another work trip. Yet for residents of “the Paris of the Midwest,” Bottega’s recognition of Detroit had a meaningful impact. For one, Bottega’s stamp of approval gave validity to Detroit’s already-burgeoning arts community. Historically and currently, the city is known for its vibrant cultural scene, with acclaimed art, music, and design movements. More recently, fashion in Detroit has seen a re-emergence, with brands like Tracy Reese’s Hope for Flowers and Shinola establishing bases in the city. For many, Bottega’s addition to the mix was flattering, the fashion world finally shedding light on Detroit. Lee’s collaboration with local artists and musicians was appreciated, as he shared his love of the city with show attendees. It was exciting to host celebrities like Lil’ Kim and Mary J. Blige. For some, however, Bottega’s use of Detroit appeared performative, with online discourse accusing the brand of using the city’s culture while excluding its residents.
For one, many pointed out that most talent for the show was outsourced from New York and other fashion hubs. Rather than scouting local talent and using the Bottega name to launch careers, some of the city’s fashion community was frustrated to be left out. Additionally, while the Michigan Theatre holds a rich historical background, some accused Bottega of “ruin porn,” using the aesthetic of dilapidation when it was convenient, without acknowledging the severe blight crisis in Detroit.
The rest of the weekend was also scrutinized. Online, jokes were made about the inclusion of the W. Hawkins Ferry house in Lee’s tour, a modernist landmark in Grosse Pointe Shores, one of the state’s whitest and wealthiest suburbs. Similarly, the Bottega Firehouse was prodded at by the New York Times’ Vanessa Friedman, as she pointed out the irony of selling luxury goods in a city notoriously plagued by financial crisis. While Lee credited his inspirations thoroughly, it was not lost that Detroit’s 80% black population was largely responsible for pioneering the movements that he cited. Although he offered credit, using black creativity for white profit left a bad taste in many residents’ mouths.
Bottega’s choice to step outside the usual locales may have been well-intended, yet it brings a host of questions the industry must consider. As designers find inspiration outside of their own backgrounds, what is the right way to appreciate culture and what steps must be taken to ensure that they aren’t appropriating? Perhaps if Bottega or Kering, the brand’s parent company, had committed to a charitable cause alongside the show, some of the discourse may have been mitigated. Without any continuing benefit, Bottega’s use of Detroit feels just like that: use. After the buzz dies down and the pop-up closes, Detroit will largely be left in the same place as before, gaining a fun fact while Bottega gains millions from the collection.
However, Lee’s appreciation of the underdog was also revered, and many applauded efforts made to include the movements’ true pioneers. Despite leaving something desired in their execution, Bottega’s attempt to subvert the norm could set an example for other brands hoping to shed light on less-recognized creative communities. Hopefully, with each step outside of their comfort zones, the fashion world will learn how to inclusively work with communities, without appearing fleeting and hollow.